Showing posts with label Grainline. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Grainline. Show all posts

/two scouts and a moss, a.k.a. grainline staple party

9.25.2014

I'm usually a one project per post kinda gal, but things are piling up.
And I'll be honest, those things aren't all that interesting. Staple-y stuff. But if it goes unblogged, was it really sewn? Well, yes- I'll always have that super tight shoulder muscle letting me know I've been at the sewing table too long.

Firstly wanted to post my denim Moss skirt, since I made it a while ago. It's the best.
Then I wore this Scout tee with it in the photos, so a two garment post was obligatory.
After that, I realized I had yet another knit Scout from eons ago so... tacking that one on too.
It's just a Grainline Studio staple party!


I had this Moss skirt all cut out and ready to go when my old serger decided to get something stuck in it and multiple mechanisms were bent every which way. (I've since bought a new serger, since it would have cost as much fixing the old one.) Hesitant, I used the faux serge stitch on my sewing machine to finish the insides. It was agonizingly slow, even with a swift and powerful Bernina motor and it didn't contain the fray too well.
But the outside looks decent and it's held up so far!
I also decided to embrace the denim and made some jean pockets.


I've made three iterations of the Scout pattern so far (all knit; one here & two seen in this post), and each time I think I've chosen a different size. Sometimes you want a super loose tee, sometimes with just a bit of ease. Then of course you have to take stretch content into consideration, too. This knit doesn't have any stretch in the way of fiber content, so I figured I wanted around 1/2" to 1" of ease at the bust. I find it easiest to choose my fit and just measure the pattern pieces directly to find the coordinating size (front and back times two minus seam allowances). For this particular tee, I went down 4 sizes from what the pattern listed me at for the original woven version. It is a little snug under the arm, but still comfy enough.

This is a knit from Drygoods Design which I believe is cotton with some linen in it.
Linen in it.
Heh, I just tried to say that super fast five times, failed, and laughed at myself.
If you're by yourself right now you have no excuses.
I believe this fabric is out of stock, but they always have so many good ones to choose from. Go there.

MOVING ON. This striped Scout is more than a year old, but a total workhorse. I wear it on the days I'm not wearing my striped raglan sweatshirt, because I must be wearing stripes at all times. If I remember correctly, this one was cut two sizes smaller than the pattern-prescribed woven size.


Only a slight variant here, I extended the back hemline a little and added a baby slit- very fancy. Even when I'm making multiples of a pattern I love, I can't stand to make the same exact style twice!


Patterns: Grainline Studio Scout Tee and Moss Skirt.

Fabrics: For the tees, Drygoods & Mood, respectively. Both tee fabrics are gone but the denim is still in stock at Mood!

/LAkeside PJs

8.23.2014

I'm a really highfalutin thinker/post namer, you guys.
These are the Lakeside PJs and they're made from fabric I got in L.A.


They're a rayon crepe de chine, which I had always fantasized about, but never actually encountered in the flesh (fiber) before. Very pleased with the super silkiness. Sometimes I feel a little guilt in my love for rayon, since it is a semi-synthetic fiber (but derived from natural materials), but then I wrap myself in some rayon (or rayon/cotton blend for guilt-lessening softness) and my doubts melt away.
One thing is for sure: It's the perfect pajama fabric.

Not sure about the print... reptile? oil spill?


I didn't use wide elastic in the waistband because it would wear on this fabric really easily, and I don't like the feel of really stiff, wide elastic under thin and silky fabric. Also, I have tons of 1/4" elastic, so it worked out. I just made two 3/8" channels and shimmied that elastic right through, resulting in a nice lightweight waistband.

Be warned: If you're not feeling really jazzed about sewing bias binding on that particular day, do not even attempt these. Sewing time on these guys works out to 5% seams, 95% bias making/applying. I did the math. If you don't own a bias tape maker, it will make your money well-spent list after the first yard, I promise!

All that tiny baby bias is worth it though, once you feel those silky back flaps fluttering as you walk across the room.

pattern: Grainline Studio Lakeside Pajamas
fabric: rayon crepe de chine from Fabric Planet in Venice, CA (ok so not really LA. Whatevs.)
handmade pj set tally: three (one and two)


/beachy archer popover

6.04.2014

I made this popover at the end of February, after I saw and promptly ordered this Steven Alan striped shirting from Mood. Upon the fabric's arrival, this shirt immediately popped into my brain (pun so intended) and subsequently out of my sewing machine. Unfortunately, it was still February and as you can see, nothing about this shirt says 'February in Washington'. I get more of a summertime 60's California beach vibe from it, but I think that's the stripes and coconut buttons talking. I could definitely hang with the Beach Boys in this thing.


You probably already guessed that this is yet another Grainline Archer shirt; complete with the hotly anticipated (by me) popover placket variation. I noticed this style when it started showing up at j.crew a few years ago, and now I'm seeing them everywhere, including many sewers' closets; Yuzukat's awesome chambray version (you know I'm going there soon), this beautiful bright white staple from Crafty Little Bugger, and from Oh She Dabbles, a cuuuute floral sleeveless version. I'll take one of each.




Here's the back, no big deal. My only regret is that it slipped my mind to place the stripes on the yoke horizontally. Just personal preference. When cutting, I get into a stripe-matching groove and apparently cannot stop. If I write it down here, I won't forget next time... or so I hope!
YOKE = HORIZONTAL.
YOKE = HORIZONTAL.

Regardless of the yoke misstep, I was very happy to add this to the rotation this Me Made May. Hopefully I'll get to channel my inner 60's Beach Gal in California this summer, too!

/the portland flannel

10.14.2013

That's right, another Archer here. I'd been attempting to buy plaid flannel many times in the past month or so, with failed searches online and at Joann (actually found this same one in 41" width, but there wasn't enough yardage). So, on a super quick trip to Portland a couple weekends ago my friends obliged me and we made a quick stop at a fabric store! Hooray! For some reason I thought there would be a bigger selection of plaid flannels in Portland but there were just a few. Two yards of this one did the trick, though.


For this shirt I took extra care in sewing on the pockets because I cut them (among other pieces) on the bias. In the past I've used a fabric glue stick for a little extra security before sewing, but didn't want to accidentally warp them while applying the glue, so I found some Lite Steam-a-Seam 2 among my sewing stuff and it worked super well. It's basically double-sided tape that bonds when ironed. Just apply to pocket allowances after folding, place it and press. After that, no worries about that pocket shifting anywhere while sewing.


 Just before starting construction, I remembered that I'd seen little loops sewn in right above the pleat on lots of store-bought shirts in the past. After Googling something like "loop on back of button-up shirts", I actually got the info I was looking for- it's called a hang loop/hanging loop. A few of the sources I looked at said they were added to shirts because collegiate athletes only had a little hook in their lockers and needed a way to hang their shirts without wrinkling during practice. There were also many horror stories about classmates ripping them off of shirts... um, yikes. I just think they look cute.


I've washed and worn this thing a few times and it keeps getting more and more soft. Pretty sure I'll be loving this for a long long time, until it's all holey a la Nirvana.

/dotted archer

8.29.2013

It's apparent that I've been bit by the seriously infectious Grainline patterns bug. Once you've started, it's not possible make just one. Really. I might be cutting another of Jen's designs today.

For my third go on the Archer pattern (one & two), I thought I'd go with the most traditional variant, view A. This time I didn't change much at all, only lengthened it by 1 inch.


My favorite parts of making the Archer are the sleeve details. The cuff and pleating and yes, even the sleeve slit placket... mmmm. The placket- I am ill, right? Just the thought of them make me want to sew another shirt right now. Also, since investing in button and buttonhole feet for my Bernina (mine didn't come with many feet at all) I have become a complete button convert. The process was okay before, now it's downright LOVELY.


The Robert Kaufman Dot Indigo cotton I used is light enough to wear as the summer heat winds down ("heat" here in the Pacific Northwest usually tops out at 85ish degrees, mind you) but will definitely be a staple for Fall. Preferably with my green high-waisted toothpick cords. Is anyone else as excited as me that CORD SEASON IS COMING?! Huge cord fiend right here. Pretty sure I need to start a hunt for some nice non-stretch corduroy and get a Clover pant muslin started.

/knit scout tee dress

7.05.2013

I'd been meaning to make this dress since February 2012 (I just looked it up, that's when I ordered this Liberty knit for a steal at $10 from Julia at Rennes' Yard Sale!). The Scout sew-along on Kollabora gave me the bright idea to use the Scout Woven Tee pattern from Grainline to get it done. It was so quick, I'm telling you.
 

I love it because it is a true 24/7 garment.

house dress
Throw it on, ready for company.

day dress
When it's warm.

layering piece
I wore it with my denim vest today (but what don't I wear with my denim vest?).
Could also wear with leggings, boots, most things in my closet.

nightgown?
Yes, definitely a nightgown, too.

It makes me think of some of my favorite Dr. Dog lyrics (Where'd All the Time Go), "She gets dressed up like a pillow, so she's always in bed," which I find to be my dressing philosophy more every day. In the song, I'm pretty sure they're talking about either a nurse or a depressed person (??), but don't worry, I'm neither of these things!


 
 necklace: Native Clutter
 


Last, I will take every opportunity to say that my coverstitch machine makes life so easy. Turn, stitch, BEAUTY! If you can't stop sewing with knits, I promise this machine is worth it!


/pointelle jammies

6.11.2013

I'm on a pajama kick, and apparently on a Grainline patterns kick, too!
I've made a couple Archer variations, Maritime shorts (to come) and now another try at the Tiny Pocket Tank.

For the tank, I applied seersucker bias tape on the neck and armholes (FINALLY bought a bias tape maker... worth the $8, believe you me!). After trying it on with the shorts, I chopped the hem 5 1/2" at the front and curved it down to 2" at the center back. The front just grazes the top of the shorts' waistband.
Yep, I kept the darts while using this knit. Don't ask why, just call me crazy. 

The shorts are of the high-waisted tap pant variety, made with an unidentified short pattern that I have made about 10 variations of. Unfortunately, I traced this pattern onto kraft paper in college and never marked the thing!




I made this set with organic cotton pointelle given to me from Texture. I have seldom met a knit I didn't like, and this was no exception! It was really great to work with and has a really beautiful finish. It would be great for lingerie/pajamas (I also made my first pair of underwear with this!), layering tees, cardigans, baby clothes, etc., etc.



If you want to get your hands on this pointelle, Teresa of Texture is running a 20% discount on all of her fabrics through June 30, 2013. Use the coupon code fabric20!
seymour.
Blog design by Labina @ Plexicod.