/how-to: match stripes without using pins


Ok, so calling this a full-on legit sewing method would be a bit of a stretch- it's just a really useful shortcut I've found for sewing stripes together (for matching when cutting, here's a helpful tip). This post may very well have TMI, but I guess the more you know...?

I first bought Steam-a-Seam lite 2 because it was recommended to finish knit hems before I bought a coverstitch machine. That worked very well, and I've found many more uses for the stuff. It's great for placing pockets, appliques, sleeve cuffs- anything you want to stay perfectly put while sewing. There are some jobs pins are just not great at. I prefer Steam-a-Seam to using a fabric glue stick now, because it is easier to apply without shifting threads around.

This technique is especially helpful with matching stripes, plaids or prints on stretchy knits or when working along a bias cut or curved seamline.

With backing still on, sticky side down, place the Steam-a-Seam along your seam line so that the outer edge is at the seam allowance. My seam allowance for this sample was 1/2". Press the tape in place, making sure it's even all the way down the seam.

Peel off the backing, making sure the tape doesn't shift around. Now the top is sticky as well.

 Match each stripe and press down separately.
IMPORTANT: Make sure you are matching the stripes on the seamline, not the in the seam allowance. You will need to flip up the entire top pattern piece to see it is matched as perfectly as possible along the seamline.
Press the seam in place with your hand first- straight up and down.

 Press again to fuse with a dry iron. The Steam-a-Seam fuses like an interfacing, but on both sides. Be sure to lift and press the iron down along the seam; gliding may shift the fabric, and therefore the stripes. After this step you won't be able to re-align the stripes, so double check that they're flush before fusing.

This is the best part! Stitch using whichever machine you are sewing with. No stopping to take out pins or check on those stripes!

Note: I've never tried using Stitch Witchery or any other kind of fusible web for this purpose (and they may work), but I know that the Steam-a-Seam has yet to gum up any of my machines or needles. No $$ endorsement here, just truth.

 Turn seam right side out and get that satisfaction that only comes from nicely matched stripes!

/experimental tritik tee


This tee was a total accident that started when I was overdyeing some black linen pants for a client. Yep, it was the perfect time to try out a tye-dye technique from Tie-Dye: Dye it, Wear it, Share it by Shabd Simon-Alexander! I am always poring over this gorgeous book and I want to try all the projects in it. So, I unearthed a small piece of what I think is cotton/modal and went to town. I decided on a stitch-resist method called tritik, where you fold the fabric like an accordion and stitch through all the layers with a thick thread. I used pearl cotton embroidery thread, which worked very well to define the design, and a large needle which did not work so well and resulted in more than a few giant holes in my final shirt. Live and learn.

The thing I like most about dyeing is that it's always really obvious what you should/could do differently next time.

I could
  • leave it in the dye bath longer
  • agitate it more to get the dye in the inside sections
  • make sure to smooth out weird folds and scrunches when folding (see just below neckline)
  • use a smaller needle, appropriate for the fabric

There's something really satisfying about trial and error with dyeing projects, because most of the time even the error is beautiful and potentially useful.  Enter: the Sewaholic Renfrew tee pattern. The resulting shirt is not on grain at all, I just cut according to the dye design, which I hadn't bothered to line up properly. As long as I was experimenting new techniques, why not add to the fun? I sewed twill tape to the outside shoulder seams instead of the inside, and to finish the neckline I cut a thin strip from the crossgrain and pulled it so it curled under, then applied it just on one side. The hem is pretty insane, but I decided I really liked the length and somewhat disheveled look.

I really love making total design-as-you-go projects, such a different process than planning every detail from the start. It makes me excited to think what potential still lurks in my fabric drawers! Have you ever tried switching up your process or sewing without expectations? Was it a success?

/blog hop


I have no idea about its origins, but this hop has been appearing on my blogroll for a while now and I have enjoyed every last post I've read so far! I was so excited to be asked by one of my favorite makers, Marie of Imaginary Animal to join in on the blog hop. She is an immensely talented artist, textile designer, sewer, the list goes on! When I finally order some yardage from Spoonflower, it'll definitely be one of Marie's designs

On with the questions. 

Why do you write?
I started this blog way back in 2009 (I had to go and look that up) as a way to document what I’d made and write about whatever. It was mostly just so that I'd have one spot to archive all the things I was making (but actually really far from all), mostly for myself to look back on. I had no idea how much the online sewing community would grow in just a few years! One thing that makes me feel good about the blog in its current state is how terrible those beginning posts were- I've definitely tweaked it over time.
Now, I'd like to start including more instructional posts and tips. I'll be the first to admit I don't know it all, but I've picked up a few tricks over the years (I started sewing as a wee one and have a B.A. in apparel design) and would love for that to be a bigger part of the blog.
What are you working on?

I am actually so excited to say what I’ve been working on- I’ve decided to put my top two (synonym for “passions” here) together and create a small line of aprons! I’ve been sewing and baking since I was little, so this is basically the most natural and practical thing for me to be making. I'm also working on some changes to this space, so stay tuned! 
With all of those projects, everything I've been planning to sew for myself has been put aside for a little while, but it's all right there waiting! Unfortunately, the mountain of alterations I need to tear through first is getting a little unwieldy.

How does your blog differ from others of its genre?

Well, I could honestly be doing better in this department! At the moment it's really sporadic project posts only, but I would like for this to be a more helpful and informative place, as I mentioned. 
I suppose the thing that differentiates any blog is the personal style element. By nature, sewing blogs up the personal in personal style, since we're all making custom clothes for ourselves. To me, that makes every one different and interesting!

How does your writing process work?

My process is usually just to sit down and write stream-of-consciousness style. When some are editing, I've already bitten the proverbial bullet and pressed 'publish'. I've always really enjoyed writing but don't tend to spend much time on it here- the time is definitely in the sewing!

Next up: Stephanie from Makes the Things and Bella from Bellbird.

Stephanie makes all the things I want (seriously); knits, lingerie, and lots of Grainline patterns. She also makes and sells the best jewelry at Native Clutter and I can attest to its real-life amazingness. 

Bella's blog is pretty new, but she has already made so many awesome things! Her style is smart and uncomplicated and she's got a penchant for really good details. Like, she makes the insides of t-shirts amazing.

Looking forward to reading more about these ladies!

/railroad pants


These began with this pair of pants from Madewell that I'd saved to my sewing idea pinterest board. I needed a pair of striped, elastic-waisted pants (because, who doesn't?), but something I could wear through fall and not freeze the second I stepped out the door.

I bought the fabric at a local quilt shop that was sadly going out of business, but that did mean it was on a hefty discount- sad yet happy! It's Robert Kaufman railroad denim, and at 6.8 oz it's a really nice and sturdy weight for these pants, yet not too heavy- it still gathers nicely at the WB. It would work well for a pair of jeans, jacket or vest too! I still have a bit of it, so one of those is definitely in my future.

As for the pattern, I made that myself. It had been way too long since I had drafted a pair of pants, so why not spend a little extra time getting the fit just how I wanted? Thankfully, it only took one muslin and the confidence that the changes needed would work well in my fashion fabric. I think it worked out! I used the fail-safe Patternmaking for Fashion Design - I love that most of my required texts from fashion classes are still super useful.

I decided against adding the horizontal panel at the waist a la Madwell because I wanted a more streamlined look, but had a little patchwork-y fun with the back pockets to add a little interest. Added some roomy side pockets, and called it a day!

These things almost qualify as secret pajamas, and I think they're my first non-solid pant since my elementary school printed legging days!

fabric: Robert Kaufman railroad denim
pattern: made by me

ps: Still having problems getting my photos to look their best on the blog. Followed all of these tips to a T (resize, save as jpeg in sRGB, etc.). Does anyone have tips? This usually doesn't bother me too much, but hoooey those stripes are not reading well! They look so much better in person, I promise. :)

/two scouts and a moss, a.k.a. grainline staple party


I'm usually a one project per post kinda gal, but things are piling up.
And I'll be honest, those things aren't all that interesting. Staple-y stuff. But if it goes unblogged, was it really sewn? Well, yes- I'll always have that super tight shoulder muscle letting me know I've been at the sewing table too long.

Firstly wanted to post my denim Moss skirt, since I made it a while ago. It's the best.
Then I wore this Scout tee with it in the photos, so a two garment post was obligatory.
After that, I realized I had yet another knit Scout from eons ago so... tacking that one on too.
It's just a Grainline Studio staple party!

I had this Moss skirt all cut out and ready to go when my old serger decided to get something stuck in it and multiple mechanisms were bent every which way. (I've since bought a new serger, since it would have cost as much fixing the old one.) Hesitant, I used the faux serge stitch on my sewing machine to finish the insides. It was agonizingly slow, even with a swift and powerful Bernina motor and it didn't contain the fray too well.
But the outside looks decent and it's held up so far!
I also decided to embrace the denim and made some jean pockets.

I've made three iterations of the Scout pattern so far (all knit; one here & two seen in this post), and each time I think I've chosen a different size. Sometimes you want a super loose tee, sometimes with just a bit of ease. Then of course you have to take stretch content into consideration, too. This knit doesn't have any stretch in the way of fiber content, so I figured I wanted around 1/2" to 1" of ease at the bust. I find it easiest to choose my fit and just measure the pattern pieces directly to find the coordinating size (front and back times two minus seam allowances). For this particular tee, I went down 4 sizes from what the pattern listed me at for the original woven version. It is a little snug under the arm, but still comfy enough.

This is a knit from Drygoods Design which I believe is cotton with some linen in it.
Linen in it.
Heh, I just tried to say that super fast five times, failed, and laughed at myself.
If you're by yourself right now you have no excuses.
I believe this fabric is out of stock, but they always have so many good ones to choose from. Go there.

MOVING ON. This striped Scout is more than a year old, but a total workhorse. I wear it on the days I'm not wearing my striped raglan sweatshirt, because I must be wearing stripes at all times. If I remember correctly, this one was cut two sizes smaller than the pattern-prescribed woven size.

Only a slight variant here, I extended the back hemline a little and added a baby slit- very fancy. Even when I'm making multiples of a pattern I love, I can't stand to make the same exact style twice!

Patterns: Grainline Studio Scout Tee and Moss Skirt.

Fabrics: For the tees, Drygoods & Mood, respectively. Both tee fabrics are gone but the denim is still in stock at Mood!

/sweatshirt season


Here we are, another post, another quest for my version of the perfect ________. This time it was a sweatshirt. It's so silly when a product is straight-up named "perfect tee, sweatshirt, trousers", right? Is it just me, or do those companies have a bit of an inflated sense of self? 

 No way I'm falling for that ploy, but here's what I had in mind for my ideal sweatshirt:
  • a wide, roomy neckline - Still covering any straps, of course! And wide enough to peek an Archer collar from underneath.
  • raglan sleeves that aren't to tight up the armpit - Not going to take the sweatshirt title to heart, give those pits some breathing room!
  • sleeve ribbing that's not too tight when pushed up to the elbows - I'm always wearing my sweaters and sweatshirts pushed up.
  • not too long, not too short.- 'nuff said.

First test: striped rayon French terry. A little sleeve tweaking was still in order, but this is probably my most-worn garment in my entire closet for almost a year. You did read that correctly- I made this October 2013 and am just now getting around to sharing! This sweatshirt is actually pretty messed up; the sleeves are not straight and the neck binding is sewn on backwards. BACKWARDS! Yet, people still ask me where I bought it so I guess others perceive these things as design details? Fine with me! The stripes are just so stripey and irresistible I'll wear it no matter what!

Here's the second sweatshirt I made in May (of this year). A definite rule breaker. That's right- cotton navy sweater knit and black ribbing, with an oversized appliqued monogram! I managed to get the neck binding on in a normal fashion this time and fixed the wonky arms.

Next, I've got high hopes for a midi-length dress from this pattern. I'm totally and completely ready for fall and all the snuggly clothes (read: sweatshirts) that I get to wear and layer!

Oh, and BOOTS. Tall boots, short boots, rain boots, booties.

I've spent half of this post waxing about my perfect sweatshirt; anyone else have such fervent sweatshirt opinions? I guess I just take comfort seriously!

/incidentially blocked pineapple tank


Scraps. We all have 'em and no matter how good our intentions are to use them, it's so hard to do! I'm always distracted by thinking of the next project, the next amazing fabric. I love the idea of using the whole buffalo but rarely get around to it.

Exception: the Sewloft Diana tank, made with leftovers from my pineapple playsuit.

Some sewers call full yards of fabric "scraps", but no, these were really and truly little baby SCRAPS. I couldn't even get a full front or back out of my leftovers, or enough for anything but a crop top!

Luckily I had a random piece of chartreuse linen, also a true-to-form scrap. I only had these bits to lengthen the tank, but it turns out there was a reason I've kept it for years - it was the absolute perfect thing to finish off this tank!

I did screw up the strap attachment/neckline finishing process a bit by not reading through the directions ahead of time... oops.
Piecing together small pieces of fabric is admittedly a bit of a time sucker, but it feels great to have a useful garment hanging in my closet instead of random fabric clogging my drawers & boxes (or actually, on my floor)! I'll just ignore the rest for a bit and revel in this little victory for minute.

I'd love to see more scrap projects or recommendations that would be more suited to autumn than a camisole.. have anything in mind?

/LAkeside PJs


I'm a really highfalutin thinker/post namer, you guys.
These are the Lakeside PJs and they're made from fabric I got in L.A.

They're a rayon crepe de chine, which I had always fantasized about, but never actually encountered in the flesh (fiber) before. Very pleased with the super silkiness. Sometimes I feel a little guilt in my love for rayon, since it is a semi-synthetic fiber (but derived from natural materials), but then I wrap myself in some rayon (or rayon/cotton blend for guilt-lessening softness) and my doubts melt away.
One thing is for sure: It's the perfect pajama fabric.

Not sure about the print... reptile? oil spill?

I didn't use wide elastic in the waistband because it would wear on this fabric really easily, and I don't like the feel of really stiff, wide elastic under thin and silky fabric. Also, I have tons of 1/4" elastic, so it worked out. I just made two 3/8" channels and shimmied that elastic right through, resulting in a nice lightweight waistband.

Be warned: If you're not feeling really jazzed about sewing bias binding on that particular day, do not even attempt these. Sewing time on these guys works out to 5% seams, 95% bias making/applying. I did the math. If you don't own a bias tape maker, it will make your money well-spent list after the first yard, I promise!

All that tiny baby bias is worth it though, once you feel those silky back flaps fluttering as you walk across the room.

pattern: Grainline Studio Lakeside Pajamas
fabric: rayon crepe de chine from Fabric Planet in Venice, CA (ok so not really LA. Whatevs.)
handmade pj set tally: three (one and two)

/pineapple playsuit


It's not often I get started on a sewing project knowing that I'm not going to get a lot of wear out of it, and still carry on. Generally with sewing and ready-to-wear, I need to answer the question "could I be wearing this ten years from now?" with a resounding yes.

But for summer?
Come on- that's way too reasonable.
I need to get at least a little crazy. Afterall, I was headed to southern California where this new garment would happen to fit in perfectly with all those palms and whatnot...

The sun-bleached photo strikes again! Poolside! I also wore this bowling, please imagine w/ bowling shoes.

No, this crazy didn't just happen, I was on a mission. I bought McCall's 6083 on a whim, then got this intense urge to make it with a rayon challis in a vintage-look Hawaiian pineapple print. The problem being that I had no such fabric. I sort of pride myself on being able to find ridiculously specific things I get in my head on the internet, so this seemed doable. 

Not so. I went on an hours-long HUNT for a fabric within my parameters and almost gave in to a rayon challis that was too expensive, in the wrong colors, and with no pineapples.

A few days later, I miraculously came across Wanderlust fabrics and then this AMAZING pineapple hibiscus rayon challis. It was on its way within minutes!

Since I was already committed to this print, I just went full-on vintage Hawaii themed and bought some crochet (was trying to find more of a macrame look) trim and stained wood beads. Just seemed like the natural thing to do. Absolutely worth the hand sewing.

The only thing I remember doing differently than the pattern was eliminating the back neck facing, opting for bias binding. Ew, I really despise facings and all their general flappiness, so I try to eliminate them as often as possible. "Invisibly" hand sewing them down to a single layer of fabric is even worse. I also lengthened the bodice by 2" for my long torso to ensure my wearing experience was sans-cameltoe.
A good note; this pattern has the best pockets! I'm plotting a pair of pants using them.

I know this thing won't get a whole lot of wear, but I think it's served its purpose for the time being. It will certainly serve another by cheering me up in the middle of winter when I see a sliver of it in my closet!

If after that first photo you put money on me getting a nasty sunburn before this vacay was over, congratulations, you've won.
And the back of my legs certainly lost.

/the bossy dress shirt


Motivated by Morgan and Sally's awesome exchange last month, Katie (of What Katie Sews) and I decided to initiate our own installation of the Sew Bossy Initiative (Originated by Heather and Oona). I'm pretty impressed with how fast we were able to get this together, considering we're all the way across the globe from each other!

We exchanged a couple likes and dislikes, and both agreed on picking projects that would be good for the summer weather. Gotta take advantage of that ever-reclusive sun!

I was super excited to open my package and find:
1) Amazing handwoven nubby eco-friendly cotton from India.
Easy care fabric with great texture? YES PLEASE.
2) The Merchant & Mills Dress Shirt pattern(!!!)
3) The most adorable embroidery scissors in a super cute Liberty print holder. I am such a scissor fiend (but aren't all sewers?)
It really doesn't get any more British than this, folks. Katie sure knows how to pick 'em.

We've been having great weather, so I kept on putting off "officially" photographing this dress until the last minute (of course) and now it's POURING outside (of course) so all I'm left with are a couple super golden sun-drenched sunset phone photos from a wedding I went to a couple weeks ago.
Side note: Someone at the wedding said I looked like a "grown-up Madeline", which is basically the best outfit comment I've ever received. That mischievous redhead was always a kindred spirit.

Here. It's much easier to just have the dress form model. 

This pattern was really enjoyable to put together; not so boring you'll fall asleep, but not difficult at all. While cutting, I decided what was so great about this fabric. It's striped, but you DON'T HAVE TO MATCH THE STRIPES! I felt like such a cheater playing with the stripe direction to my heart's content and only worrying about being on grain! The front yoke panels ended up cut on the bias and the back yoke perpendicular to the main body. This dress has really nice details and just the right amount of them; I love the oversized bib and feel like the pleat below it is really lengthening.
I contemplated shortening the hem quite a bit, but decided to try it out in the original midi-length just to see what it would look like on me. Turns out, I love the length and the shirttail hem does flash a little lower side-knee. Mmmhmmm.

 Thanks so much Katie bossing me into such a great project! It's already getting its share of wear.

p.s. Check out Katie's project here!

p.p.s. Here's a link to purchase the fabric!

/beachy archer popover


I made this popover at the end of February, after I saw and promptly ordered this Steven Alan striped shirting from Mood. Upon the fabric's arrival, this shirt immediately popped into my brain (pun so intended) and subsequently out of my sewing machine. Unfortunately, it was still February and as you can see, nothing about this shirt says 'February in Washington'. I get more of a summertime 60's California beach vibe from it, but I think that's the stripes and coconut buttons talking. I could definitely hang with the Beach Boys in this thing.

You probably already guessed that this is yet another Grainline Archer shirt; complete with the hotly anticipated (by me) popover placket variation. I noticed this style when it started showing up at j.crew a few years ago, and now I'm seeing them everywhere, including many sewers' closets; Yuzukat's awesome chambray version (you know I'm going there soon), this beautiful bright white staple from Crafty Little Bugger, and from Oh She Dabbles, a cuuuute floral sleeveless version. I'll take one of each.

Here's the back, no big deal. My only regret is that it slipped my mind to place the stripes on the yoke horizontally. Just personal preference. When cutting, I get into a stripe-matching groove and apparently cannot stop. If I write it down here, I won't forget next time... or so I hope!

Regardless of the yoke misstep, I was very happy to add this to the rotation this Me Made May. Hopefully I'll get to channel my inner 60's Beach Gal in California this summer, too!

/my favorite quilting tools (for sewing garments)


A few years ago, I read about how great fork pins were in Threads magazine, but it was just a name drop with no picture. After scouring the notions aisle of the craft store, I finally asked a sales assistant who kindly directed me to the quilting section. AHA! How I had been unknowingly bypassing this section my whole life, I do not know. Since then, I've picked up a few other notions mostly advertised as quilting aids but are awesome for garment sewing too:

Mary Ellen's Best Press
I stumbled into this stuff at a local quilt shop. I had never used spray starch before, but this non-aerosol starch alternative was intriguing, so I looked up reviews on my phone (yep, I'm that shopper) and was reeled in. Now I'm totally hooked. The sprayer produces a nice fine mist and it makes things crisp. 'Nuff said.

Clover fork pins
These pins are really helpful in matching stripes, plaids and seams. If you're as stripe-obsessed as me, these will come in handy. Slip these in with one prong on either side of the seam/stripe you're matching and it will not shift. I don't have a walking foot (Bernina walking foot = $$$), but this and a few other tools/techniques help to perfect the matching.

4.5" quilting grid
This little guy is really helpful when you need to cut perfect 45 degree angles on your bias tape ends, but don't want to take the whole thing over to the cutting mat. Also handy if you've misplaced your seam gauge for the thousandth time... not that I'm speaking from experience...

Clover Wonder Clips
An alternative to pins. Useful when sewing: bias binding, leather, oil cloth or anything that would scar from being pinned. I'm sure these were just as popular before I got some last year, but now it seems like I'm seeing them everywhere, being used for so many different applications!
Bonus: They're kind of cute and so is their name.

Anyway, I wanted to post about these tools not only to share the goodness, but because I want to know your favorites! Any tips on tools that everyone (or just me) is passing by?

/how-to: sew a flat-felled hong kong seam


Unlined jackets are awesome in spring/summer, so I thought I'd do a little run-through on a fun seam finish I used for my Albion jacket. 'Tis the season!

Warning: "unlined" sounds like it's less work, but believe me- lining sounds like a luxurious shortcut when you're binding/felling every single raw edge inside. But it's totally worth it in the end (and pretty addictive)!

inside / outside

As the name I made up suggests, this is a combination of a Hong Kong seam finish and a flat-felled seam. I like it simply because it adds more interest to the inside of your garment than an unembellished flat-felled seam, is STRONG and gives a nice clean finish.

This old j.crew blazer has seams that look similar, but they are fully bound (the bias tape is folded under twice on the side you can't see) then flat-felled. I liked the look, but full-on binding added an unnecessary step and unnecessary bulk. On my jacket, I just folded the bias tape under with the raw edge still exposed on the underside (like the Hong Kong seam finish), then stitched it down in a flat fell.

1) Sew seams completely normally (5/8" in this case). Determine which direction your seams should be sewn down; on this two-piece sleeve and the j.crew jacket they face toward each other. Trim the side of the allowance that is underneath by at least half.

2) Sew 1" bias tape to the untrimmed seam allowance at 1/4", right side down.

3) Press bias tape away from the seam allowance. Here's the inside looking a little sloppy. It's okay though!  No one will be able to see it once you enclose the whole thing in just a minute.

4) Press bias tape under and pin the seam allowance flat to the garment.

5) Sew the seam flat to the garment. You'll want to get as close to stitching in the ditch as possible, but it is more important to stitch evenly parallel to the seam line. You'll be able to see this line of stitching on the outside of your garment, so you want it nice and straight!

 You can see here that my stitching in the ditch fell a little off track in favor of keeping the line parallel.

Here's a terrible photo of the outside.. but you get the idea.

 I finished the sleeves, hem and hood of the jacket starting at step 2.

Hopefully you'll find this helpful if you're on a bomber/blazer/rain jacket quest this spring!

/olive twill albion jacket


A good olive twill jacket is one of those things everyone searches for, right? Like brown boots and the perfect tee? Well, these were all true for me (and I'm still looking for/trying to draft the latter). I do have an olive twill bomber, but it's too big in a weird-bad way. And so the search continued...
Then as many sewers/makers do, I came to the realization that if I couldn't find it I should probably make it myself!

necklace: native clutter
Enter: Albion by Colette Patterns.
When I first got the pattern, I cut a coat out of coordinating wool and wool scraps I've had for 2+ years... and bought some flannel for the lining. No coat yet. I still think it will make a great winter duffle, but I guess I just couldn't get into making something for the cold when it was (and still is) on its way out. What I really wanted was this jacket I had first sketched out; my olive twill ideal!

My absolute favorite parts of this jacket are the toggles and buttons. This is true because I got to get my woodburning tool out of the closet and burn things. Admittedly, they still smell pretty singed but it's sort of nice. Reminds me of that extra care that went into them (and makes me want to make/eat s'mores).

I also changed the front and back of the jacket to include patch-style yokes and a rain flap instead of the plain yoke detail included in the pattern. I know the rain flap makes no sense on a duffel-style jacket, but I just have a thing for them.

The innard finishing got a little complicated (well, I made it complicated); I sewed Hong Kong seams, bias bound seams, flat-felled seams and combination Hong Kong/flat-felled seams. The latter were my favorite and inspired by my trusty twill j.crew blazer (as seen on the sleeve seams, lower left corner). I actually want to make more jackets for the express purpose of using this finish. It's fun and looks pretty nice, if I do say so myself.

I did end up entering this into Colette's Albion contest, just barely. There was a little scrambling to get it done just in time. You should really check out all of the entries here. SO much amazing work went into all of them! I'm just so glad to finally have the staple olive twill jacket I've wanted.

project notes:

PATTERN: Colette Albion

FABRIC: 1.5 yards quilting cotton for bias tape, 2.5 yards 100% cotton twill

NOTIONS: 2.5 yards 3/16" cotton bolo cord and wooden toggles and buttons I got for free 5+ years ago.
Blog design by Labina @ Plexicod.